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Pav Bhaji, Mumbai

Mashed spiced vegetables with buttered pav, born in the mill districts.

Pav Bhaji in Mumbai

Mumbai eats standing up. The city's own food is street food — vada pav, bhel, frankies, kebabs on Mohammed Ali Road — layered over the Koli fishing kitchens that came first, and the Parsi and Irani cafes that shaped how the city has eaten for a century.

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